Central Europe/Danube River Cruise, Jodi & Steve, March 28th to April 7th, 2008
We wanted to maximize the trip in terms of a learning opportunity. We are happy to report, mission accomplished. I’d be glad to do it again by car with anyone who wants to join us. Life aboard the cruise vessel was 5 Star. We took guided city tours at every destination with plenty of free time ashore as well.
Germany (Bavaria): I had no idea how much my mother was a Bavarian woman. Personality, manner and gesture are all strongly influenced by genetics, more than I ever realized. I saw her everywhere I turned. I enjoyed standing in an emotionally charged pro-Tibet rally with 500 people in the main plaza of Munich in front of the city hall on Saturday afternoon. Later, Jodi and I found a neighborhood restaurant for a real sausage and sour cabbage dinner. The cleanliness of their shops, houses, farms and cities is a beautiful thing. The current Pope is from Bavaria. Jodi and I enjoyed attending Sunday mass in Munich’s main cathedral. The country side has both deciduous and evergreen trees. The Alps are near Munich. The quaint villages with narrow cobblestone streets are picturesque. The people are proud to be Bavarians first and Germans second. They were quick to remind us that Germany is a Republic comprised of separate States.
Austria: The language is German. I sensed more diversity in Vienna than Munich. We enjoyed getting all dressed up one night for an opera. As we traversed the city, I saw architecture and statues dating back to medieval time everywhere I looked. The cathedrals and palaces are literally breathtaking. The Hapsburg dynasty is everywhere. The battles with the Turks dominate their history. They are rightly proud of their cultural contributions with the likes of Mozart and Johann Strauss. I especially enjoyed the open air cafés at noon. I engaged Austrians frequently. They are concerned about the influx of Muslims. They are intrigued by our presidential candidates. Vienna is a center for Jews in Central Europe. I visited at length with an Austrian dentist. His wife is a physician. We plan to stay in touch via email. Our tour guide said that the exclusive jewelry and clothing store owners are happiest when they see Saudi and Russian women approaching their stores. These ladies have body guards that wait outside the store. I saw the famous Spanish riding school founded in 1735 with Lipizzaner horses. The same stables where the real General George Patton road these horses. You’ll recall in the movie that it’s here where he tells the press corps that the Russians are the new enemy and that he should be allowed to march his army into Russia. The pastries and chocolate candies are great, and the later are called Bon Bons. I got blank stares when I asked locals where I could buy chocolate candies.
Hungary: Much history and architecture. A significant portion of the populace remains oppressed in their demeanor by 50 years of harsh Nazi and communist rule. In the Buda side of Budapest I saw a woman selling doilies outside a museum. She was cutting a loaf of bread for her lunch with a big knife. She was wearing a long dark dress, heavy black shoes, gloves and a black scarf on her head. She is my image of a communist survivor. The tour guide said openly that many of her countryman lack optimism. However, there are splashes of new wealth. Jodi and I took a peak inside the Four Seasons Gresham’s Palace Hotel where our ship was moored. Within ten feet of the Hotel’s front door there was a black Cadillac Escalade with dressy wheels, dark glass and Kuwaiti license plates. My guess was that it had been off-loaded from the owners 747 at the airport a few hours before. The rate for a suite is $5,000 UR per night or about $7,500 US. At night on board after dinner we enjoyed a show with traditional Hungarian folk dancers. However, Jodi and I were seated to close to the performers. They literally hauled Jodi and I out of our seats and we danced Hungarian in front of 200 on-lookers. The cardio workout was far in excess of the recommended target heart rate.
Slovakia: Same level of history and architecture, but even more communist oppression lingers. They became a free nation in the late 80’s. Their capital is 2 kilometers from the Austrian border and freedom during communist rule. Our guide’s sister escaped one night with her husband 25 years ago. This couple lives in Seattle now and their 16 year old daughter is currently the 4th ranked US tennis amateur tennis player. The communists built a new city of concrete block apartment buildings across the river from the old city. The also built a new bridge over the river with a very high watch tower to prevent escapes. In the town square Jodi and I enjoyed hot chocolate, not like our cocoa. Their hot chocolate is thick like drinking Hershey’s syrup from the bottle. It’s delicious.
We feel like we gained valuable insights about others. Hopefully some of what we learned will enable us help others as well.
Saturday, April 12, 2008
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What a great vacation!
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